Historically and culturally, Aix-en-Provence is one of the most interesting and sophisticated towns in France.  A former capital of Provence with a wealth of superb 17th and 18th century architecture, it has been beautifully preserved and restored to retain much of its past charm and elegance.  Successfully blending the old and the new, the busy and bustling town is full of stylish shops and restaurants housed in beautiful historic buildings.  As home to one of France’s oldest universities, founded in the 15th century, the student population helps to spark the atmosphere, keeping the town fresh and lively.

Aix, as it is colloquially known, has also been referred to as Florence in Provence and The City of a Thousand Fountains.  Whilst only a small proportion of these old fountains still exist, some interesting and ornate examples can still be found in the town’s streets and squares.  The fountains originated hundreds of years ago with the town’s water supply coming from thermal springs, a valuable natural asset in a predominantly dry area.  The oldest of the fountains, la Fontaine d’Espeluque, originated in the 15th century and was the only source of watering in the burg of Saint Saveur.  It was moved several times before being finally located close to the ancient site of the Archbishop’s palace in 1752.

The old and new parts of the town are divided by the impressive tree-lined Cours Mirabeau, which has been described as one of the most captivating streets in Europe. 

Shaded in the summer by enormous plane trees on both sides, the Cours Mirabeau offers a fascinating glimpse into the history of Aix with its imposing residences, former homes to the nobility.

Aix has been, in turn, a Roman military outpost, a civilian colony, the administrative capital of a later Roman Empire province, the seat of an archbishop and the official residence of the mediaeval Comtes de Provence.  After the union of Provence with France, Aix remained a judicial and administrative headquarters until the Revolution at the end of the 18th century.

From the 12th to the 15th century the town was capital of independent Provence and established itself as a serious cultural centre.  This reputation was further enhanced by local artist, Paul Cézanne, later on in the 19th century.  Today, Aix is the proud host of many artistic events including an internationally renowned music festival that has been held in July since 1948.  With its carnival season from July to early September and its favoured situation at the heart of Provence, it is an ideal centre for excursions, exploration, study or sheer relaxation.

History

The town now known as Aix has a long and complex history.  Originally a Celto-Ligurian settlement at the top of a plateau, the Oppidum d’Entremont, it was located just north of the present town.  It was the fortified capital of the Saluvii tribe, found by archaeologists to have been a relatively advanced urban civilisation, until it was destroyed by the Romans and its inhabitants massacred in 123BC.

After the destruction of Entremont, the Romans moved from the high ground to settle on the plain below.  The exceptionally well located site soon became known for the purity of its hot and cold springs.  They named the town Aquae Sextiae – the waters of Sextius – after the Roman consul Caius Sextius Calvinus who led the development of the settlement in 122BC.  Over a period of nearly 2 000 years, the name evolved through various Gallic and Provençal dialects to become the present day Aix en Provence.

At this time it was on the Via Aurelia at the intersection of Provence’s two principal roads.  One route linked Gallia Narbonensis (today’s Provence and Languedoc) to Italy and Spain.  The other, leading from the Mediterranean coast to the Alps, was the path of transhumance between plains and mountains.  This location boosted the city’s importance as it blossomed both in urban development and as a spa. 

Twenty years after the arrival of Sextius, the Teutons, marching towards Italy, engaged the Roman army which was commanded by General Marius.  There was a great battle and the Teutons suffered a crushing defeat after days of savage fighting.  The place where the battle was fought was later named Mont Sainte-Victoire and many Provençal families took the habit of calling their sons Marius after the general who saved Provence for them.  The town continued to flourish as a Roman provincial capital with amphitheatres, villas and strong fortifications.

The Romans held onto their power until the 3rd century AD, when Aix was conquered by the Visigoths.  In the following century, the town was constantly under attack by the Franks and the Lombards, followed by the Saxons and Saracens.  With these various invasions lasting almost 500 years, many people fled the town to settle elsewhere as the Aix was dealt one devastating blow after another.  When Aix was finally captured by the Saracens in 731 AD a much calmer period ensued.  People were again able to settle and rebuild their communities.  During this time, regional power devolved to Arles.

From the 12th century, the Court at Aix became a centre of cultural and literary refinement under the Counts of Provence.  This process reached a peak in the 15th century under King René, Duke of Anjou, titular King of Sicily and Count of Provence.  The King, known as Good King René, was a classical scholar who was also familiar with the Hebrew and Catalan tongues.  He was a skilled musician, both composer and player, painted, wrote poetry and was a student of the sciences as well as geology and law.  Having introduced the Muscat grape to Provence, he was also happy to work in the vineyards.  Heand encouraged popular festivals with the object of preserving ancient folklore and the traditions of chivalry.  The court over which he presided was one of the most cultivated Europe has known.

Aix was handed over to France in 1487, along with the rest of Provence.  Louis XII sanctioned the Provence Parliament, equivalent to the Parliament in Paris, which lasted until 1789.  Early in the 16th century, Aix was ravaged repeatedly by the Imperials.  Aix sided with the Reform, against Richelieu and Mazarin and lost.

Aix is closely associated with the incredible Count Mirabeau, one of the leaders of the Revolution.  Mirabeau’s extraordinary career cumulated in his turning his back on his peers in 1789 after a sojourn in the infamous Chateau d’If prison.  He was subsequently elected as a representative of the Third Estate – the people.  From the moment he appeared in the Assembly, he came to the fore with the fire and thunder of his eloquence.  However, he grew to detest the anarchy of the mob and for the remainder of his life he tried to restrain the madness of the Revolution.

The prosperity of the 18th century was followed by a long lull during the 19th.  The French Revolution had done its work.  Aix was demoted from capital of the region to a humble sous-préfecture as Marseille came to prominence.  The 19th century passed Aix by as the railway from Paris to Marseille was routed through Avignon, Arles and Miramas and once proud Aix dawdled into the 20th century as a country market town.  The town’s reputation as a cultural centre did get a boost in the middle of the 19th century when Paul Cézanne came to prominence as an Impressionist artist.  A local man, from a wealthy merchant family, Cézanne was often visited by his artist friends Renoir and Monet and the author Emile Zola.

After the Second World War, Aix once again began to prosper.  The town grew quickly with the construction of a new university in the south of the town.  Its population grew from 30 000 in 1930 to almost 70 000 in 1959.  In the 1960s many refugees arrived from North Africa and with them, the building of many new houses.

In the middle of the 1990s the extreme right wing party, the Front National led by Jean Marie Le Pen, gained a strong presence in Provence and won a massive victory in the municipal elections.  In 2002, after Le Pen’s shocking success in the first round of the presidential elections, people throughout France took to the streets in protest and Le Pen was heavily defeated in the second round.

Geography

Aix is set in a landscape of forest and rocks on a plain overlooking the Arc river.  Less than 2km from the right bank of the river, the town is set on a gentle north-south slope and though protected from the north winds, it does sometimes experience the famous Mistral wind.  Aix has an excellent mild climate, experiencing approximately 300 days of sunshine and no more than 90 days of rain each year.

Economy

Aix-en-Provence has been one of the most important towns in France since earliest times.  Today Aix is a leading educational centre.  Its university, college of art and design, teaching and research institutes and centre for international study programmes all make a substantial and vital contribution to the local economy.

The industrial sector of the city has included flour-milling, the production of confectionery, ironware, hats, matches, processed foods and olive oil.  Some of the newer industries include the semiconductor and electronics industry specialising in microchip technology for credit cards, the computer software industry, viticulture and the manufacture of the traditional Provençal santon figurines. 

Tourism

A town full of charm and character, Aix offers a wealth of fascinating landmarks for the tourist to enjoy.  It is easy to spend hours wandering around the town tracking down the numerous fountains, admiring the elegant architecture and stylish shops, exploring ancient backstreets or simply relaxing on café terraces as the bustling world goes by.

Cours Mirabeau

One of France’s finest boulevards, this beautiful wide avenue lies at the heart of Aix and is close to many of the town’s main attractions.  Considered to be the second most prestigious street in France after the Champs Elysées in Paris, it is here that one can find all the beauty of the noble Provence of the 17th and 18th centuries with its handsome hôtels particuliers, the former private mansions of the upper classes.  The avenue is interspersed with squares bursting with flowers and four graceful fountains in contrasting styles.

Nearly half a kilometre long and 42 metres wide, the Cours was built on the ancient city ramparts.  A stream also flowed under it and this subterranean water supply nourished the grand old trees that lined it, forming a cool green tunnel in summer and a stark guard of honour in the clear winter light.  The original elms, affected by disease, were replaced by the current plane trees, so typical of Provence, in the 19th century.

The impressive Rotonde fountain forms the centrepiece of a large roundabout at one end of the Cours Mirabeau, the other end being marked with a statue of ‘Good King René’ created by sculptor David d’Angers.  Shops, cafés and hotels populate the busier sunny side of this splendid avenue.  The more shady south side of the Cours Mirabeau is bordered by the imposing former homes of the wealthy with their wrought iron balconies and huge doors often framed by massive sculpted pillars.  Many of the original owners were either chairmen of the Parliament, counsellors at the Cours de Comptes (audit office), idle aristocrats or self-made men.  Today, many of these grand houses are occupied by banks and other businesses, but they retain their own fascinating histories.

Number 38, the Hôtel Maurel de Pontevès is the oldest private home on the street.  Built in 1647, predating the Cours by four years, it belonged to Pierre Maurel, a wealthy local textile merchant who spent a fortune on this sumptuous residence.  The façade is dominated by two great telamons, sculpted by Jacques Fossé, that flank the door and hold up the first-floor balcony.  Today the building houses the Chamber of Commerce.

The Hôtel d'Isoard-Vauvenargues at Number 10 was formerly known as the Hôtel d'Entrecasteaux.  In 1784 this building gained notoriety as the scene of a grisly crime passionel.  The Marquis d’Entrecasteaux murdered his wife there, intending to marry his mistress.  Sentenced to death, he died of a fever before he could be executed.

Number 20, the Hôtel de Forbin is one of the boulevard's largest mansions.  Built in 1656, its beauty comes from the simplicity and symmetry of its design by Parisian architect, Pierre Pavilion.

At Number 53 bis, the former Hôtel de Gantès has been home to the oldest and most famous brasserie in Aix which opened in 1792.  After being bought by two waiters in 1840, its name was changed from Café Julien and it has been known as Les Deux Garçons ever since.

Affectionately known as the 2Gs, this legendary establishment was the ‘local’ for artist Paul Cézanne and writer, Emile Zola.  Other celebrated customers have included Picasso, Jean Cocteau, Jean-Paul Sartre, Albert Camus and Edith Piaf.

At Number 55, just across the rue Fabrot, you will find the CIC bank.  Once a hat shop owned by Cézanne’s father, this is where the artist spent some of his childhood.  A small plaque marks the spot and, if you look up to the first floor, you can still see an old, faded painted sign Chapellerie du Cours Mirabeau.

The Fountains of the Cours

La Rotonde fountain is a large, ornate structure measuring some 41 metres in diameter and dating from 1860.  It consists of two basins, the lower one guarded by four groups of two lions, the smaller one embellished with leopard’s heads.

The whole fountain is topped by three symbolic female statues representing Justice, the Arts and Agriculture.  Water jets shoot in all directions, criss-crossing in an intricate, sparkling crystal filigree.  When illuminated at night, it is even more spectacular.

The Nine Cannons fountain, also known as the Saint Lazarus fountain, is on the site of a spring where flocks of sheep were brought to drink when being moved from winter to summer pastures.  The present fountain was built in the 17th century by Laurent Vallon and is a fine example of Louis XV design.

The Fontaine Moussue was named after the thick layer of moss that covers it, hiding decorative sculptures below.  A thermal fountain built in 1734, its 35°C (93°F) waters have been valued for their healing properties for over 2 000 years.

At the other end of the Cours a statue of Good King René stands over a fountain built in his honour, the Fontaine du Roi René.  Artists’ palettes and books represent his skills as a painter and writer.  He holds a bunch of grapes in his left hand, a nod to his penchant for viticulture, having brought the first Muscat grapes into Provence

Vieille Ville

The old town of Aix is full of shops, museums and markets set among numerous historic architectural and religious sites.  Behind the odd-numbered side of the Cours Mirabeau, you will find meandering backstreets and alleys interspersed with small pedestrianised squares.

In the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville you will find l’Ancienne Halle des Grains.  This ornate building, now a post office and library, is the old Corn Exchange.  Built between 1759 and 1761 and designed by Georges Vallon and, it is a reminder of the historic importance of the wheat trade.  The north façade is embellished with two symbolic figures, a man and a woman, who represent the Rhône and Durance rivers, vital for prosperous harvests.  The sculptures were designed by Jean-Pancrace Chastel, who was also responsible for the fountain in the middle of the square and that in the nearby Place des Prêcheurs.

The Palais de Justice on the Place de Verdun was rebuilt in the Parisian style at the end of the 18th century.  Located on the site of the former Parliament and palace of the Counts of Provence, it is a monumental neo-classical building that remains France's most important Appeal Court, second only to that in Paris.

The terrace cafés on the Place des Prêcheurs, where a regular flower market is held, are particularly popular with students and young locals.

Fine examples of Baroque architecture can be found in the magical Place d’Albertas, which also has a charming fountain in the centre.

Mazarin District

South of the Cours Mirabeau is a predominantly residential area, the Quartier Mazarin.  This area of 17th century town houses was built from 1646-51 by the Archbishop Mazarin who was keen to expand the town to the south.  The Granet Museum, Paul Arbaud Museum and the 13th century Eglise St Jean de Malte are in the Quartier Mazarin.

The pretty Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins in the Place des Quatre Dauphins, in the Mazarin district, was built in 1667 by Jean-Claude Rambot.

Musée Granet

This fascinating museum of Beaux-Arts and Archaeology is housed in the 17th century priory of the Knights of Malta.  As well as displaying some of Cézanne’s renowned masterpieces there are a number of his lesser known paintings, sculptures and documents.  There are also works by Rubens, Frans Hals and Rembrandt.  The late 18th and early 19th century French School is well represented by works from Rigaud and Greuze, David and Ingres.  Picasso, Matisse, Klee, Leger, Giacometti, Mondrian, Nicolas de Staël and others represent the 20th century, while the Archaeology rooms have a large number of pieces excavated from nearby Entremont, as well as Roman, Egyptian, Greek, Graeco-Roman and Gallo-Roman sculpture.

Sextius Baths

The Thermes Sextius in the northwest corner of the town, along the Boulevard Jean Jaurès, are 18th century hot-water baths set in a large tree-shaded park.  This is near the site of original Roman baths, which were large enough to attract visitors to Aquae Sextiae 2 000 years ago.

Cathédrale du Saint Sauveur

The magnificent Cathédrale du Saint Sauveur is located in the ‘Holy Saviour’ quarter, just north of the town centre.  According to legend, it is on the site of a temple to Apollo.  The cathedral, dating back as far as the 5th century, features Romanesque cloisters, a unique baptismal font and, above all, the famous Buisson Ardent (The Burning Bush) triptych by Nicolas Froment.  This masterpiece depicts several scenes including King René kneeling before the infant Jesus.  Even the Flemish tapestries which decorate the choir and which were brought from Canterbury Cathedral in England are most unusual. 

The former Bishop’s Palace today houses the Musée des Tapisseries.  Some particularly fine examples are on display this Tapestry Museum, including Les Grotesques, l’Histoire de Don Quixote and Les Jeux Russiens.

Musée du Vieil Aix

The town’s local history museum can be found in the Hôtel d’Estienne de Saint Jean.  It includes a selection of arts and crafts exhibits that were collected by folklorist Marcel de Provence in the early 1930s.  These include a santon nativity, furniture, books, traditional regional costumes, marionettes and all kinds of everyday objects and utensils.

Atélier de Paul Cezanne

Cézanne’s Lauves studio, just north of the town centre in Avenue Cézanne, remains exactly as it was when he died in 1906 and contains many souvenirs of the artist.  It is here that he produced some of his finest paintings including ‘The Bathers’, one of his most famous works.  A fascinating time capsule, the artist’s painting materials and personal belongings, are presented as they would have been when the artist was in residence.

Also of interest is the Jas de Bouffan, the house and grounds of Cézanne's father, now partially open to the public.

Fondation Vasarely

Housed in a zany geometric building typical of the work of Victor Vasarely, the acclaimed Op-art designer and artist, the Fondation Vasarely is primarily a showcase for the French-Hungarian artist’s work.  This retro-futuristic museum is packed with soaring, kaleidoscopic and mind-bending geometric art that will provide you with a hefty dose of sensory overload.

Calissons

No trip to Aix is complete without sampling the famous local confectionery, calissons.  The almond-shaped delicacy is made from blanched almonds mixed with crystallised melon and orange peel on a communion wafer base and topped with icing sugar.  Some of the best calissons are sold in Brémond in the Rue d’Italie or Puyricard in the Rue Rifle-Rafle behind the Palais.  A variety of flavours are available including lavender, vanilla, fig and chocolate.

Each year on the first Sunday in September, a very peculiar local tradition takes place.  A parade of people in traditional Provençal costume and playing traditional instruments gathers at the Saint-Saveur Cathedral for the blessing of the calissons.  The group accompanies master patissiers, bearing a statue of the Virgin Mary and Child on top of a box of calissons, towards the Church of Saint Jean de Malte where the calissons are blessed.  The blessing finishes with the calissons being distributed to the public at the Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins

Historically, the tradition stems from the plague of the Middle Ages.  At its peak, little niches housing statues of the Virgin Mary and Child were placed at the corners of buildings so that people could ‘attend mass’ from the windows of their home.  By the 1600s, even the Parliament and Magistrates of Provence had left the city and only the provost, consul and assessor remained.  On 30th January 1630, the assessor Martelly held a large mass in dedication of the Virgin of the Seds, the patron saint of Aix and vowed to offer thanksgiving every year after.  For this reason, every 1st September, the bells of the city were rung in honour of this vow.  As the calissons were used as communion wafers, they became associated with this annual commemoration of the plague.

Their origin, of course, remains a mystery.  Versions similar to the calissons existed as far back as the 12th century in Italy and Crete, but the most popular story traced their introduction to Provence to 1473, at the wedding feast of King René and his second wife, Jeanne de Laval.  The more accepted story is that they became popular in the 16th century when almond trees were introduced to Provence and the almond trade flourished.  By the 20th century, Aix became the capital of almond trade.

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